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Foods from The Hundred Days
Foods from The Yellow Admiral
Foods from the August Shore Party
Syllabub from the Cow
Divers Other Comestibles
W.W. Norton Home
'What about pudding? Did you ask Mrs Lamb about pudding? About her frumenty?'
'Which she is belching so and throwing up you can hardly hear yourself speak,' said Killick, laughing merrily. 'And has been ever since we left Gib. Shall I ask the gunner's wife?'
'No, no,' said Jack. No one the shape of the gunner's wife could make frumenty, or spotted dog, or syllabub, and he did not wish to have anything to do with her. The Far Side of the World, pp. 78-79
The dinner itself went well.... Attentive trolling from the wardroom lights had provided a handsome young swordfish; the Commodore's livestock three pair of fowls and a sheep, his cellar a considerable quantity of claret, unavoidably rather warm but of a quality to stand it; and the small Jersey cow a syllabub.... The Commodore, p. 180
When last heard from on this topic, our heroines were anxiously awaiting a Blessed Event.
We can now report that Lynette, the gentle cow all black and white, gave birth in late November at Old Bethpage Village Restoration, Nassau County Department of Recreation and Parks. On the 13th of December, she assisted us in our great endeavor, under the wary supervision of her calf Norman.
(While waiting for the genuine article, incidentally, we performed the Cow Simulation maneuver depicted on the Foods from the Yellow Admiral Page. There is historic precedent for this: Hannah Glasse says, "You may make this Syllabub at Home, only have new Milk; make it as hot as Milk from the Cow, and out of a Tea-pot or any such Thing, pour it in, holding your Hand very high.")
We are not by any means the first in our time to have attempted the historic feat of "direct-milking" Syllabubin fact, the Petits Propos Culinaires for May and August 1996 featured a series of articles and letters on the subject. The making of this dish is apparently fraught with pitfalls for the unwary; and the stories told by the experts were so daunting that it is perhaps fortunate we did not read about their findings until after our own bovine encounter. If we had, the reports of mysterious flotsam in the bowl (the least among which are hairs, dandruff and other cow detritus best left unidentified) would probably have gone a long way toward dissuading us from attempting the experiment.
Worse than that, it seems that less-than-ideal pasturage (such as
weedy grass, wild garlic, etc.) can have a deleterious effect on
the taste and texture of the milk, producing stringy curds and
Milk the cow directly into the bowl until you have approximately
2 quarts of milk. (Be prepared to start all over again if the cow
knocks over the bowlor steps in itboth of which happened to
us. In fact, we finally gave up on the bowl and used Marty's more
stable bucket instead.)
(If you do not have access to a milch cow: use either unhomogenized milk or, as an absolute last resort, a combination of homogenized milk and heavy cream. Heat to cow temperature approximately 103 degreesand pour into the bowl from cow height; preferably using a soft squeezable bottle with a nipple and violently expressing the milk therefrom, to approximate the force and angle of the real thing.)
Variation: Staffordshire Syllabubinstead of port and
sherry, use 4 cups cider and 1 cup brandy, and increase the sugar
to 5 tablespoons.
"A Glass of Syllabub with you, Ma'am."